Chitose Abe is ready to return to the world.
The designer took advantage of her recent trip to Paris, where she presented a unique couture collection as guest designer of Jean Paul Gaultier, to shoot the lookbooks for the Sacai women resort and men spring 2022 collections at the OdÃ©on-ThÃ©Ã¢tre de l âEurope on the left bank – despite intermittent showers.
Abe felt the location and weather were perfect for showcasing his appearance, designed to bridge the gap between indoor and outdoor activities, as some areas cautiously reopen after coronavirus-related closures.
âThis season it was really about being able to go outside. I was thinking about the functionality and also the performance of the clothes, âshe explained via Zoom. “You can wear them everyday, but you can also wear them on more chic occasions, so with this place we were able to represent both scenarios.”
Riffing on a theme of bonding, both as a metaphor for unity and as a technique for bringing two materials together, the range included a collaboration with German technical clothing brand Acronym. The outfits featured details such as work clothes pockets, taped seams and slits, while many fabrics were waterproof.
Abe brought sophistication to looks, like a sleeveless gray raincoat to the floor, worn over a fringed striped jacquard skirt and wide-leg slit pants, which she accessorized with a wicker basket containing a picnic set of the French ceramic brand Astier de Villatte.
A cream tweed jacket was lined with a water-repellent black fabric, while the brand’s signature cashmere bandana prints and buffalo checks were used for all-over looks, including a red and black-inspired millefeuille dress. punk that echoed one of the looks she showed off on the Gaultier runway.
âI had a great time designing the Jean Paul Gaultier collection – it further underscored my interest in combining smart and casual,â she explained.
The masculine looks mix workwear shapes with touches of flamboyant colors, from golden yellow to turquoise through bright pink, giving the collection an urban – and urban – shine. As social life picks up, a multitasking wardrobe is once again a must. After all, sweatpants can only get you so far.